What Rules Governed Domestic Travel in Japan During the Edo Period?

The Tokugawa shogunate’s travel control system is a perfect example of how historical reality can be far more nuanced and interesting than official regulations suggest. Despite an elaborate system of checkpoints, permits, and restrictions, travelers in Edo period (1603-1868) Japan experienced a surprisingly flexible and vibrant travel culture.

The Official System: A Web of Control

The Tokugawa shogunate established an intricate travel control system centered around five main roads (Gokaido) and 53 strategic checkpoints called sekisho. These barriers were designed with multiple purposes:

1. Military Control: Prevent daimyo from moving troops or weapons
2. Social Stability: Keep unemployed warriors (ronin) from congregating in cities
3. Population Management: Limit peasant movement and keep families rooted in their domains

Travelers were required to obtain permits, with especially stringent rules for women. Some checkpoints, like Hakone and Arai, were notoriously strict, with detailed inspections that could deny passage for the most minute discrepancies.

The Reality: A Culture of Travel

Contrary to expectations, travel during the Edo Period was not just possible but increasingly popular. Several factors contributed to this:

• Pilgrimage: Became a socially acceptable and often enjoyable reason for travel
• Growing Prosperity: Increased wealth allowed more people to travel
• Social Support: Community networks and alms-giving enabled even poor individuals to undertake journeys

Who Was Traveling?

Surprisingly, the roads were predominantly filled with male peasants and merchants. Many traveled without official permits, often relying on:

• Temple certifications
• Purchased permits from local businesses
• Sympathetic checkpoint officials who often turned a blind eye

The “Benevolence of the Realm”

The most fascinating aspect of Edo travel was the concept of “the benevolence of the realm” – a tacit understanding between government and people. While laws existed, they were applied flexibly, prioritizing practical considerations over rigid enforcement.

Unofficial Workarounds

Travel regulations were riddled with creative bypasses:

• Purchasing permits at local shops
• Bribing checkpoint guards
• Using well-known alternate routes
• Even crawling through literal holes in checkpoint barriers

Women’s Travel: Restricted but Not Impossible

Women faced the most significant travel challenges:

• Many checkpoints prohibited women’s passage
• Strict permit requirements
• Complicated inspection processes

However, older women, particularly those past childbearing age, often traveled enthusiastically. Women’s travel groups, sometimes accompanied by a single male companion, were not uncommon.

A Lesson in Flexible Governance

The Edo Period travel system demonstrates a sophisticated approach to governance. As scholar Constantine Vaporis notes, Japanese law prioritized “rule-by-man” – evaluating individual cases on their merits rather than applying blanket mechanical precedents.

This approach challenges Western perceptions of Tokugawa Japan as a rigid, closed society. Instead, it reveals a nuanced system where official forms were maintained, but practical human considerations took precedence.

Restrictive Travel System

The Edo Period travel regulations offer a fascinating glimpse into a society balancing control and freedom. What appeared to be a restrictive system was, in practice, a surprisingly dynamic and accommodating framework that allowed for significant personal mobility and cultural exchange.

Recommended Reading:

• “Breaking Barriers” by Constantine Vaporis
• “Tour of Duty” by Constantine Vaporis
• “Musui’s Story” by Katsu Kokichi

The Significance of Kanto and Kansai

The terms Kanto and Kansai, meaning “East of the barrier” and “West of the barrier,” respectively, reflect the historical significance of the Hakone Checkpoint during the Edo period.

Established in 1619, this checkpoint was a critical control point along the Tōkaidō highway, which connected Edo (now Tokyo) with Kyoto. It served as a means to regulate the movement of people and goods, particularly focusing on preventing the smuggling of weapons and restricting the travel of women, especially those of noble status who were often kept in Edo as hostages to ensure their husbands’ loyalty to the shogunate.

The checkpoint was meticulously reconstructed in 2007, allowing visitors to experience a glimpse into the past and understand the stringent travel regulations that defined this era.

Today, it stands as a historical site where one can explore the reconstructed gates and buildings, offering insights into the social management system of Edo Japan and its impact on travel practices